Today, I will introduce to you Mr Uesugi who runs Soba restaurant in Kichijoji, Tokyo. Do you know what Soba is? Have you ever tried it?
Soba is definitely one of the most famous diet and quite popular among all the ages, regardless of gender.
Originally, Soba was local cuisine of Tokyo area or Northern part of Japan (Tohoku region) but now its popularity has spread out through the whole land of Japan. In Kansai, Kyusyu, Hokkaido area where those handmade Soba was not absent before,
we now see bunch of full-blown Soba restaurant open.
Not quite sure why this movement arose today but might be because Japanese people are to recognize its speciality, gourmet of Soba again. It also could be one of the reasons that Soba's another aspect as highly healthy and hearty food has been revealed.
BTW, in Japan, there are so many kinds of cuisine we can enjoy but there are few people who can speak of the uniqueness of Soba, literally.
Comparing to other western cuisine, Soba was too simple and familiar to us, we did not speak much of it for this reason.I do eat Soba, my favorite, but i am not a mania for it. I have no special idea with buckwheat producer, ingredients of the Soba sauce... Some "Soba-nuts" do enjoy diving into the Soba cuisine and this kind of movement also describes the nature of Soba in Japan, though I myself do not understand why.
First time i tried Uesugi-san's soba, "Uesugi" was already very popular in Tokyo. Even I was not aware of its fact, I could feel how attractive it was.
The way it appealed me was, in short, its manner, that was all about it.
The architecture of the restaurant, atmosphere, price and of course truly the taste, all those factors are harmonized into one piece, that manner was so comfortable to me.
Selfish to say but I suppose the way Uesugi-san understand the Soba as a cuisine matches so closely with how I think of Soba in the end.
I knew bunch of nice Soba restaurant but I never felt like that before I tried "Uesugi".
Today, I could get a chance to talk with uesugi-san and what he says first in regard to Soba was about the water.
He said.
"I suppose there is water in the heart of Japanese culture, especially for food culture."
"For example, SAKE, the Japanese rice wine which is made from rice, rice malt and water. I think it's very interesting to use water for its ingredients. Whereas for the western wine, water could only be a impurities. In "Aizu" area, there is a "water Soba" which is just a Soba floating on the water but its sense, to take water as a part of cuisine is very special, Japanese unique."
It is true that enjoying the existence of water lies at the Japanese culture, naturally and It's safe to say that Soba was born under the culture with water.
"And the nature of the water also fits to Soba well here" He also said.
"In other countries, they usually have rather hard water, but in Japan, we have soft water. Hard water fits really well to boil and use for the teas but not so good for the drinking water. Same case for Soba, too."
"This area, Kichijoji in Tokyo, we still have well water and without this conditions, i could not maintain the taste today."
The idea to put high value with the water might be owing the fact that we originally have soft water which is good for drinking.
Little aside, when Beef was introduced in Japan where there was no custom to eat beef, "Shabu Shabu" was the first cuisine invented in Japan. You know what is "Shabu Shabu", souse the beef into the hot water and eat with dressing. It is pretty much alike the way we eat Soba. I am very proud of the sense of Japanese who have invented such a chic cuisine in tunes with water.
Let me put the story back here.
"The buckwheat, Only Japanese buckwheat suits for Soba, others are good for crepe, though. The reason behind is the content of water. Ground radish goes with Soba is also something Japanese specific. Only Japanese radish goes well with Soba."
"So, if the same chef goes to foreign country and cook Soba, it would never be the same Soba. There is a word saying"Local production for local consumption", Soba could only be born in Japan, definitely. Unfortunately, not so many Japanese people knew this facts "
The buckwheat and water, both are familiar to Japan, and only those stuff could be Japanese Soba...
"In the end, Soba is so much depend on its ingredients. We just knead with water and cut. Why such a simple food could be so subtle and intimate. I also think Japanese nation could originally feel and enjoy those subtleness. This is exactly representing the nature of Japan, too."
Yes, actually, Soba is very simple and therefore very subtle cuisine. It is simple but not that easy. Just like uesugi-san's case, he spent several years to seek for the best blending of the buckwheat before he opened his restaurant.
His story comes close to its end.
Then, in the concrete, what's the image of good Soba Uesugi-san thinks.
"I think, the image should be different for each people. As you eat Soba, you may be able to find the image of your own favorite. Your initial broad image of Soba will be sharpened step by steps, that way you will see your favorite Soba." "However, I as a professional, I need to deep dive into it more. I see more phenomenal, for example, Soba has to be sharpened and grazed when it's served. This is fundamental condition for good Soba."
"Some Handmade Soba chef may got satisfied when they cut the Soba but I personally think Soba is all about the feeling when we boil and serve onto the bamboo basket."
So what's about the feeling?
"Well, it's hard to describe by words. I also spend very long time to find that feeling while I was a trainee. I suddenly found that feeling while I was dishing my master's Soba. Of course, they look totally alike."
To tell you the truth, Uesugi-san spent 5 years under the person who had said to originate the style of Japanese Soba.
"I have been spending more than 30 years for cooking Soba but my motivation is kept by the notion that I never want to loose that feeling."
So, what do you pay attention the most when you cook Soba?
"That is to maintain the taste at the same level, all the time. It's easy to cook Soba but to maintain the taste of this subtle food is quite difficult."
Interesting story here. Uesugi-san once thought that if Soba could still be delicious when comparing to other countries cuisines. This sounds very crazy but he did go over Europe and eat around their cuisines, like pasta.
"What I could find during that period was Soba could still be very competitive when setting out with other countries food on flat basis. Soba is such a wonderful food for us."
This anecdote describes the Uesugi0san's character so well, I think.
Now, what is your recommend Soba here?
"That's Tricolor Soba. Actually, Soba can be enjoyed even without the sauce. Last time my son finished up my Soba without the sauce but this could only be done with Soba. Any other noodles could not be enjoyed without the sauce, isn't it so fantastic??"
Is there any formal way to enjoy Soba?
"No, not at all. enjoy as you like."
Some Soba restaurant treat their Soba as an object of art. They even guide us the way to eat. The reason why I like the way of Uesugi-san is owing to this stance, too. If you could get a chance to visit Tokyo, you better try Soba and if possible, please came down to Uesugi and order tricolor Soba. As Uesugi-san's wife bring you the Soba and you will get surprised.
"Hey, Japanese people eat Soba with such a small portions, Can't believe they still work so hard!"
